One of the best ways to ensure yourself a successful tank later on is to get off to a good start. The initial preparation of (and later the maintenance of) the tank is a hobbyist's gateway to creating a strong foundation for his aquarium. By providing all of the equipment a healthy aquarium requires, faithfully maintaining the highest standards of cleanliness in the tank, and paying close attention to everything that goes on in the tank in case a problem arises, any hobbyist should be able to cultivate a beautiful tank full of healthy fish.
The initial setup and continuing maintenance of a tank can be a challenging task, but it is well worth the effort. Read the following articles for more information on the equipment you will need to set up a tank, the tasks involved in tank maintenance, and a list of materials often used in successful tanks:
Equipment
In order to become a full-fledged fishkeeper, you will need a variety of supplies.
Tank
The first piece of equipment you will need is a tank. Fish tanks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. A rectangular tank is recommended over hexagonal, pentagonal, or any other shape, because rectangular tanks generally provide the most surface area and are easier to maintain.
The size of your tank will be determined by several factors. First of all, the larger the tank, the greater your chances of success. The bigger the tank is, the more mistakes you can make without seriously affecting the fish, and the more time you will have to fix any mistakes you make. Also, the tank size you choose will be dependent upon the amount of fish you desire to keep. A larger tank can hold more fish than a smaller one. Bigger tanks are also superior in terms of temperature regulation. For a beginner, the recommended tank size is a minimum of 20 gallons.
Stand
A fish tank will require a stand to keep it off the floor and raise it to an appropriate height. As a full fish tank can be quite heavy (at least 10 pounds for every gallon), using a piece of household furniture (like a table or a bookshelf) as a stand is not recommended. To avoid potential disaster, a stand specifically designed to hold a fish tank and sized to your particular tank is the best option in almost all cases. Commercial aquarium stands are available in metal and wood. They come in a variety of styles and qualities, some very simple and some looking more like an expensive piece of furniture, even providing storage space underneath the tank.
Cover
A tank cover serves several purposes, but its most important duty is to keep the fish in the tank. Some fish are more inclined to jumping than others, but any fish has the ability to get out of an uncovered tank. The types of covers most commonly used are plastic hoods and glass tops. They both have access doors, and a plastic hood will also have a glass strip where the light fixture will be installed.
Substrate
Most fish do not require a substrate. It is more for aesthetic appeal than anything else, but many hobbyists choose to use it in their tanks. Gravel is the substrate most commonly used. It is available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Medium-sized gravel is generally best, although smaller gravel can look great in a planted tank. Large gravel can be disastrous, as it can leave spaces that will trap food, waste, and even small fish.
Decorations
Decorations are not a required component of a successful tank. However, they will add significantly to your tank’s aesthetic appeal and can provide a sense of security for your fish by creating hiding places. The choices are endless, including live or fake plants, real or fake rocks, and a huge variety of molded ornaments of structures like castles and treasure chests. Check with your dealer to make sure that any wood or rocks you use are safe for the type of tank you have and will not have negative effects on the tank.
Lighting
There are a variety of aquarium lighting options to choose from. The lighting you choose will depend on the type of tank you have: aquatic garden, fish-only, or low-light plant. If you have an aquarium with a variety of aquatic plants, your tank will require a substantial amount of lighting. If your aquarium is not going to include any plants at all, a standard light fixture will do, which will usually house a normal-output fluorescent tube light. This type of lighting will enhance the beauty of your fish with a fairly low, standard wattage.
A low-light plant aquarium will require dual-tube fluorescent lights, which can fit in the same space in a hood that would house one regular single-tube light. These lights can provide plenty of illumination for your tank with only about 2 watts per gallon. They should be full-spectrum bulbs that are specifically manufactured for use with aquatic plants.
Heating
Most fish will do well in an aquarium that maintains a temperature between 76° and 80°F. This will require a heater and a thermometer. Aquarium heaters are available in hang-on and submersible varieties. Submersible models are attached to the aquarium glass with suction cups. They tend to be more expensive than hang-on heaters, but they also are generally more reliable and accurate. To make sure the tank is evenly heated, place the heater horizontally on the back glass of the tank, just above the bottom and just below the filter return.
The wattage of the heater you choose for your tank should be determined by the size of the tank and the location of the tank. For example, if you have a 50-gallon tank, you can use a 150-watt heater or two 100-watt heaters if the tank is kept in a location that can become cool; if your tank is 29 gallons, it will need a 100-watt heater or two 75-watt units if it is kept in a cool location.
Filter
There are several types of filters, including sponge, undergravel, and hang-on outside. The sponge filter (basically, a piece of foam sponge that is fitted with a lift tube) is inexpensive, easy to maintain, and quite efficient. It is an inside filter, meaning it must be situated within the tank and cannot be hung on the outside like some other filters. With some effort, a sponge filter can be hidden by rockwork or decorations, but it will never be unnoticeable. They tend to be most useful for tanks under 20 gallons in size, which are not recommended for beginner hobbyists.
The undergravel filter is made up of one or more slotted filter plates that cover the bottom of the tank with a small amount of space left beneath them. Lift tubes are fitted into the filter plates and the plates are covered with several inches of gravel. Water is drawn down through the gravel, into the space below, and then pulled up the lift tube and back into the tank. The downside of undergravel filters is the upkeep. By performing weekly deep vacuuming during water changes, many problems can be avoided, but if debris is allowed to build up under the filter, an extensive cleaning will need to be performed, including the dismantling of the entire tank.
The hang-on outside filter is highly recommended for novice aquarists. Most of these filters use a water pump to bring water from the tank up into the filter, where it moves through areas of filter media and, with the help of gravity, returns to the tank. There is no such thing as over-filtration, only under-filtration, so buy the biggest and most powerful filter that you can hang on your tank.
Maintenance
A tank will only survive for so long without regular, thorough maintenance. Regular water changes and cleaning are vital to the health of your fish. All of the maintenance routines discussed below should become second nature after a while, but it is a good idea to schedule the weekly and monthly tasks on your calendar, just so you don’t forget them or put them off for too long. If you leave too much time between water changes or cleanings, the damage may be irreversible.
First of all, there are some supplies you will need for cleaning your tank. This equipment should be used for tank cleaning only and not for any other household chores. Using the same bucket for tank cleaning as for washing your car, for example, could eventually mix some soap or chemical residue into your tank water and quite likely kill your fish. A minimum of two buckets should be set aside for use in aquarium maintenance. These buckets will be used for water changes, gravel washing, treating sick fish or acclimating new fish, and many other cleaning-related activities.
Daily Maintenance
Take advantage of your daily feeding time to check a few things in your tank. First, look at your fish. Take at least a few minutes to observe them each day. Get to know their appearances as well as their behaviors. Once you become very familiar with your fish, it will be easy for you to notice any changes that could indicate a problem.
Check the temperature of the tank every day to make sure it is at an appropriate level and the heater is functioning properly. As long as the temperature stays within a range of 3 or 4 degrees, your fish should do just fine, but if it is varying more than that, you will want to inspect your heater and perhaps consider purchasing a new one. Another good idea is to touch the tank with the back of your hand any time you are near it, just so you can immediately recognize an extreme temperature change.
Checking the filter should be another part of your daily maintenance routine. Many filters will run reliably for years and years, but at any time, a problem can arise. Make sure the filter is still running and that the water is flowing at the same rate as usual. A filter that is partially clogged or has stopped running altogether will immediately begin to put the health of your fish at risk.
Weekly Maintenance
Several tasks should be performed on a weekly basis, if possible. These include water changes, glass cleaning, and vacuuming.
Water Changes
One of the most serious problems a fish tank will encounter is waste buildup. In the wild, waste will quickly disperse throughout the water, but in a tank, waste can quickly accumulate. Waste buildup is a problem because it can make a tank appear dirty, but it also brings a much more serious problem: ammonia. This substance is produced by fish and by the bacteria that break down waste, uneaten food, and other things in the water.
One way to keep debris buildup to a minimum is to conduct frequent water changes. Regular, partial water changes are unequaled in their ability to keep a tank fresh and your fish healthy. Fish are constantly producing waste (urine, feces, and other wastes, such as ammonia), and in a tank, this waste has no where to go. In a dirty tank, fish are forced to intake these wastes through their gills every time they breathe.
Recommendations on how much water should be changed during each water change vary greatly, from 10 percent to 100 percent. Simply put, the bigger the water change, the better. If you can change all of the water on a weekly basis, your fish will be better off for it. However, since many hobbyists will not be able to find the time or energy to complete that task, a 50-percent change once a week is recommended and seems to work well for most freshwater tanks.
A water change can be simple or more complicated, depending on the method you choose. The tried-and-true bucket and hose method is probably the easiest and most popular. To use this method, simply place a bucket lower than the aquarium and use some tubing to siphon water from the tank into the bucket.
There are also water-driven changers that avoid the danger of spilling a bucket of water all over the floor. These changers use the flow of water from the tap to create suction in a tube. When the appropriate amount of water has been taken out of the aquarium, the flick of a switch allows water to flow from the tap back through the tubing and into the aquarium. Remember to always make sure that the replacement water is the same temperature as the water that was removed to avoid shocking your fish.
Glass Cleaning
Cleaning algae off of the glass once a week will keep your tank looking clean and make for easy viewing of your fish. Keep in mind that algae is not a bad thing, when confined to the glass, so it is a good idea to clean only the panes of glass that you use for viewing and clean any others less frequently. Glass cleaning will be performed with a scraper made of metal or plastic blades or an abrasive pad. Work slowly and smoothly, being careful not to scratch the tank.
Vacuuming
Some hobbyists do not vacuum the gravel ever time they change the water, but a good vacuuming once a week is highly recommended. Keeping the gravel free of detritus will allow the filter to function more efficiently. To vacuum the gravel, use a siphon with a gravel tube on the end, plunging the tube into the substrate. As the gravel is lifted partway up the tube, dirt particles (including uneaten food and feces) are sucked up and out of the tank, and then the gravel is dropped back to the bottom of the aquarium.
Monthly Maintenance
Filter Cleaning
Biofilters can become clogged with debris, preventing a smooth flow of water. A gentle rinsing with water from the tank at its normal temperature should be sufficient to clear the filter of any clogs.
Cover Glass Cleaning
Whether you have a glass top or a hood top on your tank, any tank cover will require a regular cleaning. The outside will be dusty, and the inside will have accumulated calcium deposits and algae, particularly near the light. It is especially important to clean the cover regularly if you’re keeping live plants in the tank, as buildup will significantly reduce the amount of light reaching the plants.
Checklist
Setting up and maintaining a thriving freshwater tank will require some supplies. The following list includes some highly recommended items:
- Tank
- Cover
- Stand
- Substrate
- Decorations
- Light
- Heater
- Thermometer
- Filter
- Water Test Kit
- Bucket
- Siphon Hose
- Algae Scraper
- Net
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